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Hydrolastic

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reymondos
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Post  advent Wed Jan 11, 2012 4:17 pm

Is there a right and wrong way to release the pressure in the hydrolastic set up in preparation to stripping it?

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Post  Big_Al_Smith Wed Jan 11, 2012 8:20 pm

i just remove the dust cap from the valve, push in the central valvey bit with a screwdriver or similiar (like you'd let down a tyre), and try and catch the fluid as it comes spurting out (goggles!)

had no problems doing it this way in the past Very Happy
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Post  advent Wed Jan 11, 2012 9:35 pm

Thanks for that, is the fluid reusable?

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Post  Red Riley Thu Jan 12, 2012 12:40 am

You'll most likely realize the answer to that question when you see what comes out. Use new stuff.
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Post  Big_Al_Smith Fri Jan 13, 2012 9:11 pm

ditto!
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Post  Denny1965 Mon Jan 16, 2012 9:34 pm

I actually have a hydrolastic pump for mine, works a treat because it catches the stuff if you lose it but can pump more in as well. Just need to know the trim height (centre of a wheel to the centre of the wheel arch...somewhere round 33 or 34cm I think)

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Post  advent Tue Jan 17, 2012 4:12 pm

is it possible to hire these pumps ?

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Post  Denny1965 Tue Jan 17, 2012 8:37 pm

I think you can you know but don't hold me to that. I aquired mine from a friend who used to do a lot of work on MG's cos they have a similar system. You may well find one fairly cheap you never know Smile

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Post  advent Wed Jan 18, 2012 11:12 am

Does anyone know if it is possible to make a hydrolastic pump?

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Post  reymondos Wed Jan 18, 2012 1:18 pm

If you Google it there are quite a few ways of doing it. The cheapest way apparently is using a grease gun, but the succes rate is not very good.
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Post  Jono_h Wed Jan 18, 2012 4:00 pm

Very easy to make a pump. I've replied to a previous thread with a diagram, have a search, and I'll see if I can find it.



Found it

https://elf-hornet.forumotion.com/t1251-liam-s-1966-mk2-elf-restoration-thread

My cost less than £20 to make and has made it's money back already

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Post  advent Wed Jan 18, 2012 4:39 pm

many thanks will give it a go!

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Post  cheleker Wed Jan 18, 2012 6:17 pm

I don't see any way for the grease gun to evacuate air from the system; i.e., create a vacuum in the line.

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Post  Jono_h Wed Jan 18, 2012 8:01 pm

You're right, it doesn't create a vaccuum so won't be much good on a brand new / empty system.

But for topping up it works brilliantly.




Having thought about it, surely if you can hold the purge valve open somehow (which I think is just a schrader valve near the front displacer) then surely you could use the grease gun to pump fluid through until no more air comes out, then close the valve and keep pumping.

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Post  Red Riley Thu Jan 19, 2012 12:00 am

There are a couple of hydro pumps for sale on Ebay, but be warned, they are not cheap.
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Post  scooperman Sat Jan 21, 2012 2:23 pm

The hydro pump as used by BMC dealers was the best thing, but you can make something equivalent in performance without spending a lot of money. While I was trying to do this
hydro hose repair I found an old Cars and Car Conversions article where they used a manifold vacuum tank to evacuate and recharge the hydro, a copy of the article is on the MK1 Performance Conversions site. So they didn't even need a vacuum pump, they just used engine manifold vacuum. I copied the idea, modded a vacuum tank with a hose and Schrader no-loss fill valve, but I did not try to use the engine vacuum as my vacuum source like CCC did. Instead I borrowed a generic vacuum pump and plumbed that to my tank.
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Post  850man Sat Jan 21, 2012 3:57 pm

I own a genuine BMC Hydro pump. The vacume side of it I only use when I need to replace a ball & cup in the front of a Mini/Austin 1800 etc. When Vacume is applied it retracts the bag enough to get in there easly. I have found over the years the best way to remove all the air from the fluid is to pump the system up to the required pressure, release it all, and repeat, again & again. Each time you release the pressure it seems to remove the air trapped in the fluid untill on the last release there is no more air. Then just pump up to the req pressure. This method works very well. And when releasing pressure from a hydro system, if your going to stick somthing in the valve wear safty glasses, 450 psi fluid can make you blind very quickly.

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Post  cheleker Sat Jan 21, 2012 7:41 pm

Jono_h, I've never seen a Mini with a purge valve near the front displacers.

850man, if you have a BMC pump, why not use the vacuum side of the pump instead of multiple fill/purges? On a Mini, at least, it works well.

The modified grease gun might work OK for a minor top up, but for systems way down or having been evaculated (like the original post on this thread), one ends up with too much air in the system and an ineffective hydrolastic system. Sort of like brakes with air in the lines.

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Post  Big_Al_Smith Sun Jan 22, 2012 12:25 am

i can only say that i have used my own little "grease gun" pump to refill, from empty, my own car's hydro system about 3 or 4 times and have had no trouble at all
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Post  Jono_h Sun Jan 22, 2012 11:20 am

cheleker wrote:Jono_h, I've never seen a Mini with a purge valve near the front displacers.

Cheleker,

Where does the vaccuum pump connect to? I thought you connected the filling bit to the valves on the rear subframe, and the vaccuum pump to a valve at the highest point (which I assumed to be the front displacers)

Thanks,

Jon

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Post  cheleker Sun Jan 22, 2012 8:16 pm

Big_Al
I wonder how much better the car would ride by drawing the proper vacuum on the system first to get all the air out. Brake systems will work with air in them, too. Just not as well.

Jon,
All the work is done via the rear subframe valves. That's why the factory pumps had the vacuum set up built into them. If the hydro systems were like brake systems with openings at both ends, the process would be different and the "grease gun" set up would work for evacuated systems as well as for top ups.

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