Floor, sills repair or replace
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Floor, sills repair or replace
Well after suffering with wet in the cab all winter I took a good look at the floor of the Elf today and it's been patched badly. The worst is at the rear where the floor joins the heelboard. So basically seen as I'm a brace and belt type of guy I'm staring down the barrel of replacing the complete floor, both outer sills (inner not too bad) and maybe the heelboard depending on what I find.
So those of you who've done it what's the best way to set about it. I've been thinking of getting the panels, tacking them together and then cutting the existing floor (once braced) out and putting the new in. The other way on my mind is to cut the panels out one at a time and replace that way.
Any advice to the whole affair will be greatly appreciated including timescales as this is my daily drive and I'd need it back on the road asap.
Cheers all.
So those of you who've done it what's the best way to set about it. I've been thinking of getting the panels, tacking them together and then cutting the existing floor (once braced) out and putting the new in. The other way on my mind is to cut the panels out one at a time and replace that way.
Any advice to the whole affair will be greatly appreciated including timescales as this is my daily drive and I'd need it back on the road asap.
Cheers all.
Zef- Posts : 140
Points : 5613
Join date : 2009-06-25
Age : 53
Location : Yorkshire
Re: Floor, sills repair or replace
I wouldn't try tacking the panels together first - you'll never make them fit.
It's quite an extensive job to do them properly, as once you remove the sills you are certain to find further work that you can't see. To do just one sill, repair and prep everything in sight and fit a new one I would budget two days. I've never done a complete floor, only sections (not yet found one that was bad enough to replace the lot - oil leaks usually protect the tunnel and centre section!). My Elf was the last car I fitted a complete quarter floor to; now I tend to find it easier to just replace what actually needs it. Again I'd look at minimum two days a side to chop out half floors and replace.
Heelboard again I've never done, but I know that it would involve removing the rear subby. That's probably three hours work on a dry suspension, and every subframe I've ever removed has required half a day's work to clean and repaint - false economy not to do so while it's off (and garages never seem to paint them when they replace them!)
So to do the whole lot I think you'd be wise to allow at least a couple of weeks. Look at some of the projects on here for an idea of the work involved, Robinkritz for example. If you could post pics of the problem areas we could perhaps be more precise.
Just one other comment; in my experience, wetness inside rarely comes from the floor - door seals and screen surrounds are the more common leak spots.
It's quite an extensive job to do them properly, as once you remove the sills you are certain to find further work that you can't see. To do just one sill, repair and prep everything in sight and fit a new one I would budget two days. I've never done a complete floor, only sections (not yet found one that was bad enough to replace the lot - oil leaks usually protect the tunnel and centre section!). My Elf was the last car I fitted a complete quarter floor to; now I tend to find it easier to just replace what actually needs it. Again I'd look at minimum two days a side to chop out half floors and replace.
Heelboard again I've never done, but I know that it would involve removing the rear subby. That's probably three hours work on a dry suspension, and every subframe I've ever removed has required half a day's work to clean and repaint - false economy not to do so while it's off (and garages never seem to paint them when they replace them!)
So to do the whole lot I think you'd be wise to allow at least a couple of weeks. Look at some of the projects on here for an idea of the work involved, Robinkritz for example. If you could post pics of the problem areas we could perhaps be more precise.
Just one other comment; in my experience, wetness inside rarely comes from the floor - door seals and screen surrounds are the more common leak spots.
asahartz- Posts : 415
Points : 5957
Join date : 2009-03-03
Age : 62
Location : Mansfield, Notts
Floor cont.
As requested here's some pics. To be honest I've seen worse floors myself but I'm more concerned with what lies beneath the patches. I've not taken any pics of the outer sills as these definately need replacing as they are shot
https://i.servimg.com/u/f69/14/99/71/32/imag0011.jpg
https://i.servimg.com/u/f69/14/99/71/32/imag0012.jpg
More to follow after the internal server error goes away
https://i.servimg.com/u/f69/14/99/71/32/imag0011.jpg
https://i.servimg.com/u/f69/14/99/71/32/imag0012.jpg
More to follow after the internal server error goes away
Last edited by Zef on Fri May 07, 2010 9:36 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : remove a blurred image)
Zef- Posts : 140
Points : 5613
Join date : 2009-06-25
Age : 53
Location : Yorkshire
Re: Floor, sills repair or replace
Right, I see where you're coming from now. Patches upon patches! Not good. I'm inclined to agree now that a full floor would probably be best, but you're looking at a big project here. Reading those pictures, I'd say it's certain that the inner sills in the bottom of the parcel bins are shot, and it looks at though your heelboard has been patched from outside.
All the parts are available, but it's time to balance budget against time and effort. M-machine (parts catalogue) do a complete floor assembly which includes the cross-member and heelboard, which would be quickest and easiest, but it's £505! The individual sections will be cheaper but you'll have the time and effort of fitting them all together.
You need to find yourself a big chunk of time or some alternative transport, because I think you're going to need at least a couple of weeks for this!
All the parts are available, but it's time to balance budget against time and effort. M-machine (parts catalogue) do a complete floor assembly which includes the cross-member and heelboard, which would be quickest and easiest, but it's £505! The individual sections will be cheaper but you'll have the time and effort of fitting them all together.
You need to find yourself a big chunk of time or some alternative transport, because I think you're going to need at least a couple of weeks for this!
Last edited by asahartz on Sat May 08, 2010 10:08 pm; edited 1 time in total
asahartz- Posts : 415
Points : 5957
Join date : 2009-03-03
Age : 62
Location : Mansfield, Notts
Re: Floor, sills repair or replace
I got a complete floor (with an extension for the extra length of the van) from mini sport for around £200 You would still need a cross member/seat support for around £60 unless yours is good condition but the time wasted trying to save it may make a new one a more attractive proposition.
Mini Sport were not very good on delivery, kept making excuses about delivery,pckage costs etc and I was having two (the other for a mate to share P&P expenses!
They eventually turned up on a pallet (to keep their shape!)
Good luck with yours!
BTW mine where
Genuine Heritage panels
Mini Sport were not very good on delivery, kept making excuses about delivery,pckage costs etc and I was having two (the other for a mate to share P&P expenses!
They eventually turned up on a pallet (to keep their shape!)
Good luck with yours!
BTW mine where
Genuine Heritage panels
TONYELF- Admin
- Posts : 1743
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Join date : 2008-11-21
Location : Chester UK
Re: Floor, sills repair or replace
Somerfords do a full floor for about £175, but only in the 1991 design - the tunnel is different.
asahartz- Posts : 415
Points : 5957
Join date : 2009-03-03
Age : 62
Location : Mansfield, Notts
Re: Floor, sills repair or replace
I forgot to mention that mine has the "square" tunnel thats prob why the one quoted is costing more (specially pressed?)
TONYELF- Admin
- Posts : 1743
Points : 7463
Join date : 2008-11-21
Location : Chester UK
floor
My ebay cross member arrived today. It's a bit lower than the standard one which will lower the seat height for me. Now to save pennies for a floor.
Zef- Posts : 140
Points : 5613
Join date : 2009-06-25
Age : 53
Location : Yorkshire
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