Unleaded Petrol

I thought I may have already started a thread on Unleaded Petrol but can't find it myself!

Any how. Many people have asked me how my Elf runs on unleaded petrol and the answer has always been "OK" I do use an additive about every three tankful and so far he/she has run sweet.
However, in another thread I have said I have taken the C/Head off to investigate a ticking sound when hot ( haven't found out what that was yet, but guess it was a case of a cam follower having "piston Slap")
seeing as I had the head off I thought it daft to put it back without having it checked out by a friend who reconditions engines. The report back so far is the valves need replacing, the seats regrinding but otherwise ok. I'm hoping the valves will arrive today and Andy reckons if they do, he will have it back to me tonight
Update to follow.

Like you, I run all my Minis on unleaded, no additives (the fleet now numbers 8!) Some of them do or have done significant mileages - my Elf did 50 miles a day for two years before being "rested". None have yet developed any engine problems (other than my daughter's but that's been caused by overheating).

If and when any of them do have problems I have two spare heads in the shed, two spare engines in the yard, and a nephew that recons heads for a living!

If your really lucky (like me) you have a Bayford distributor near you and can still buy proper leaded petrol...

asahartz wrote:Like you, I run all my Minis on unleaded, no additives (the fleet now numbers 8!) Some of them do or have done significant mileages - my Elf did 50 miles a day for two years before being "rested". None have yet developed any engine problems (other than my daughter's but that's been caused by overheating).

If and when any of them do have problems I have two spare heads in the shed, two spare engines in the yard, and a nephew that recons heads for a living!

I didn't actually say there was any damage due to the unleaded petrol,
Feedback from Andy.... All valves shot ,valve seats need re cutting. Valves look like timing has been out at some time, signs of pre ignition damage.Also possible too lean a mixture.
Bearing in mind, the engine had not turned over for 18 years, there may have been some rust on those in the open position when standing there?
Bad news is, the new valves did not arrive today so will be Monday now before I may have the head back
Watch this space! Could mean burning the midnight oil to get it back on road for the IMM?

Bad times!!

Tony, it's at times like this i remember the words of my dear late grandad.... "if it ain't broke don't fix it!"

Jase

discoman41 wrote:Bad times!!

Tony, it's at times like this i remember the words of my dear late grandad.... "if it ain't broke don't fix it!"

Jase

It's my motto as well actually believe it or not but when two or three "experts" tell me there is a tapping /clicking noise coming from somewhere in the region of the tappet box I started to worry!
Looking back. It only started when hot. The cam followers were slightly worn on the bore,one in particular was scored slightly more than the rest. They were only £23 for set of eight! I now know they are ok. I did put some cheap oil in a while back to flush the engine before putting some decent stuff in, maybe there was some of that still there? or maybe it is the timing chain but methinks that would be a continuous noise rather than a ticking noise consistant with the speed of the engine. The "experts" are respected,experienced members all listened for ages with a long screwdriver all over the engine!

The Un-Leaded debate
A series engines will run quite happily on standard un-leaded petrol for thousands of miles without any real problems providing they are not driven hard or over long distances. The engine was originally designed back in the late 40's early 50's and first made its appearance in the Austin A30 (not the Morris Minor as many people believe to be the case) in the form of the 803cc fire breathing monster well about 28bhp.
The function of the lead in petrol is to prevent the exhaust valves from sticking to the cast iron valve seats by coating both mating surfaces with a lead oxide based chemical. The cast iron cylinder head is relatively soft in comparison to the very hard high grade steel valves and without the protective lead coating, the valves tend to stick/weld to the valve seats every time they close and remove a few fragments of the softer cast iron from the seats. As mentioned earlier, this process happens much faster with engines that are driven at higher speeds and on longer journeys. As the valve seat degrades, compression is lost and hot exhaust gases leak around the valve and seat, accelerating the process.
The A series head is very easy to convert to run on un-leaded petrol as the head is easy to remove and a machine shop can fit hardened exhaust valve seats in a day or so. I have heard figures of between £50 and £100 for this job, which is pretty reasonable in my book.
If you are still unsure about the whole process, check the compression for each cylinder and if one or more are down, I suggest investing in the modification as once done, you can drive your car without any worry of burnt valves, damaged cylinder heads, loss in performace and fuel economy.

Thanks Andrew. I do tend to do lots of long journeys at pretty high speeds (60's+)
My Elf was a "barn find" inasmuch the owner had died and no one knew she had a car in the garage. The last tax disc was Oct 86 and the car was found in 2005 so I guess it had been standing all that time minus flywheel and clutch. Seeing I had no info on the condition or why the flywheel was missing I thought I would test it out for a few months before deciding what to do.It would have been pointless to spend money on it and then finding it rubbish and having to strip it down again?
As it happens,it has been virtually faultless and very reliable,the only time I have been "stuck" was running out of petrol as the petrol gauge float was stuck at half full !
It was my intention to remove engine and subframe as a winter job ,to clean it all up ,engine compartment included, replace all mounting rubbers etc as nec.
I am happy to have the head converted to unleaded now as it means at least that part is done and I can now concentrate on cleaning up etc.
Tony
Ps Have you sent my Sunday ticket and pass yet?

Andy has just given me some bad news! his valve seat cutter motor has broke down whilst recutting the second one!
He must be devastated, he has brought mine forward ahead of about 20 other heads to be done.
However quite a few of the miniaddicts live local to me and one had kindly offered to lend me his spare head so that I may come to the IMM. I am hoping to pick it up tomorrow and possibly fit it on Wednesday so keep your fingers crossed for me or what ever it is you do!
Watch this space!

Good luck Tony - hope you get it fixed in time!

Thanks Sarah. as it happens I managed to put the "temporary re-placement head" on yesterday and drove the Elf to my miniaddicts club meet last night. It still has the ticking noise which is annoying but no one seems to be able to pinpoint what is is. the best guess is the water pump which has only done 2500 miles. the next best guess is the dynamo (which Is the only new component fitted recently) so the first chance I get today I will take the fan belt off the engine pulley and see if the noise persists. If it doesn't then I should be able to decide which it is between the the pump and dynamo. If it still persists then it may be the timing chain
I have arranged to travel down to Stratford on Avon Friday morning in it so fingers crossed it won't let me down! Cos I aint gonna try and fit one this week (whatever it is!)
Whatever the outcome I look forward to meeting all the Sunday participants at the Show with or without the Elf. See you there!
For those attending on Saturday. Have a nice day!

Tony
Good to hear the wheels are rolling once more. If it is an engine problem then I wouldn't worry too much as these units will soldier on for ages regardless. I think your original thoughts re the cam followers/cam shaft is a strong possibility as both the water pump and dynamos are rotary units and if faulty would produce a constant noise.

See you Sunday.

We found the bottom pulley (normally riveted together) parting and thought that may be "clapping" together) on every turn. Now I know why the belt could not be tightened, it was sitting lower in the groove! (Now temporarily spot welded to see me through to the winter?
Noise still there, no suggestions please,it 's too late now, I'm starting off tomorrow for Stratford for weekend and hobbling along on Sunday to the show so see you there all being well! You can all listen to it then!

TONYELF wrote:We found the bottom pulley (normally riveted together) parting and thought that may be "clapping" together) on every turn. Now I know why the belt could not be tightened, it was sitting lower in the groove! (Now temporarily spot welded to see me through to the winter?
Noise still there, no suggestions please,it 's too late now, I'm starting off tomorrow for Stratford for weekend and hobbling along on Sunday to the show so see you there all being well! You can all listen to it then!

I know this maybe an almost too obvious long shot, but I had a really irritating ticking sound on "Rupe" with what sounded like coming from the engine, but the ticking got quicker the faster I went, and slowed as I did, and stopped when I stopped. so I was thinking, driveshafts, wheels.... the obvious choices... Know what it turned out to be??? The speedo cable on it's way out! Have you checked yours???

Jase

I don't think so as it occurs whilst standing on tick over but thanks for the hint, all appreciated.
See you Sunday. Elf or no Elf!
Tony