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Oil pressure readings

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Oil pressure readings Empty Oil pressure readings

Post  sebillba Fri May 15, 2009 6:27 pm

What would be considered a healthy oil pressure reading on a automatic gearbox engine 998cc ? In neutral and also in drive? fully warm, and also cold?

Cheers
Greg
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Post  Elf Service Fri May 15, 2009 8:39 pm

sebillba wrote:What would be considered a healthy oil pressure reading on a automatic gearbox engine 998cc ? In neutral and also in drive? fully warm, and also cold?

Cheers
Greg

With clean good quality 20/50 multigrade oil (Duckhams, Halfords Classic, Millers etc) the readings when warm should be between 65 to 75psi when running and no lower than 25psi at idle. If you have been driving the car hard and on a hot day, the oil pressure can drop to say 55 when running and possibly as low as 15 at idle but these should return to the higher pressure reading when the oil cools. If you find your engine produces higher or lower readings, check the oil pressure relief valve and spring and replace if worn or in doubt. Too much pressure won't cause any major problems but is wasting energy and power. If the oil pressure is too low, try changing the oil and filter (automatics really need an oil and filter change at least every 2000 miles or 6 months). If this doesn't improve things but the engine sounds fine then the loss of pressure is probably just down to general wear and tear. Being an automatic I expect you drive the car with respect and consideration so I wouldn't worry but if you wish to use it for more spirited driving then a bottom end rebuild (Crank regrind, new oil pump and new shells etc) is advisable. The 998cc "A" series engine is a tough unit and will soldier on for thousands of miles with low oil pressure provided it is treated with respect.

Cold pressure readings. 75+ when running, 50+ at idle are typical but its best to judge an engine at normal operating temperatures. Only use the water temperature as a guide as the oil takes longer to warm up.

To answer your question re thermostat ratings, I use an 86 stat and this works fine. I suggest moving away from lead substitutes and get the head converted. This isn't a big job and even if you can't manage the job yourself, a local garage should do the job for well under £200.00 all in.

Hope this helps.

Andrew
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Post  sebillba Fri May 15, 2009 10:12 pm

Andrew, thank you for your reply it has been really helpful.
I have never driven an automatic before so feel it is really a learning experience. I was prepared for it having higher maintenance needs. It does drive lovely and smooth and quiet modern feeling though.Having always driven older cars I have never been a zipppy driver.
It sounds a very good idea to get the leadfree conversion.I have never had it done on a car before. I will investigate with local engineers in Portsmouth to get some idea.
Duckhams has always been my oil of choice. Probably paying for the name but I have always been pleased.
The 86 deg is the middle one I have seen so it seems like its going to be the one of choice.

Greg
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Post  asahartz Fri May 15, 2009 10:28 pm

My Elfie is an auto too, and great to drive. Unlike most modern autos you can manually select any gear too.

However they are known to be a bit fragile - I am on my third - and spares are unavailable so it's usually a replacement engine & box. I currently have an '89 unit. Both my previous ones gave up all forward drive with only a little warning.

With the gearbox sharing the engine oil, the choice of oil is important (as it is with a manual too; I had to tell my daughter not to put any more 0w40 fully synth in hers! though at least she was putting something in it this time). As Andrew says, a good 20w50 is ideal, it's what these cars were designed to use, and IME you won't go far wrong with Duckhams.
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Post  superworm Fri May 15, 2009 10:44 pm

Hi Guys

Miller's Oils "Do" a 20/50 custom oil for Classic Mini's (and Elfs/Hornets!!!). I have used Duckhams and Castrol forever without any apparent problems. However, I intend to give Miller's a try at the next oil change. I spoke to those folks at the recent "Race Retro" at Stoneleigh and they assure me that there is an Accessory Shop/Motor Factors nearby who can get it for me and their website will also point you in the right direction. Iirc it costs abour £22 for 5 litres



http://www.millersoils.net/1_Millers_frame_CLASSIC.htm

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Post  sebillba Fri May 15, 2009 11:11 pm

When you said your on your third box it fills me with trepidation Shocked Ohhh dear lol
It is a low milage car (32k but I have my doubts its correct! !) That can be a double edge thing as sometimes low milage means a non auto minded person has had it and servicing slips
Before I bought it I looked into the spares of the auto box. There is not many specialists out there. I had never owned or driven an auto box before but this is lovely. I saw some people changed to manual but after driving this I will always endeavour to keep it auto.
I am a very gentle driver and its only me thats going to drive it Wink
It always pays to put the best oil in, a huge false economy not to.
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Post  Elf Service Sat May 16, 2009 11:24 am

These units are not the most robust and as they are now at least 40 years old, regardless of mileage and use, are well past their best buy date. I recently upgraded a 1969 Automatic Elf with a stronger and improved later box out of a Metro. This wasn't that difficult but as with any upgrade, things didn't go quite to plan but I don't want to bore you with all the details. The end result was worth the effort as the car now drives like new. I expect the owner will have many more years of trouble free motoring. The later Mini box is pretty well the same as the Metro so this is a serious consideration if you can't obtain a good spare early box. Obtaining new parts for any Mini/Metro Auto box is near impossible and finding a garage/engineer capable of rebuilding one of these units is becoming difficult.
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