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Fitting a 998 A plus engine and Rod change gearbox to a 1962 car

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Fitting a 998 A plus engine and Rod change gearbox to a 1962 car Empty Fitting a 998 A plus engine and Rod change gearbox to a 1962 car

Post  OBL233F Mon Jan 02, 2017 4:28 pm

Hi All,

I have been a member of the Register for quite a number of years but sadly never had a car on the road. My 1967 Elf was sold a couple of years ago and ever since I've wanted to get another mini or elf/hornet. I have been offered a solid Mk1 Austin mini with the 848cc engine and Magic Wand Gearbox. The same chap also has a re-built 998cc A plus engine and Rod change gearbox from an 80s mini that he was going to have fitted in the car. I have a few questions having had Morris minors for the last few years with no more than basic knowledge of minis.

Apart from the hole to be cut in the tunnel for the gearstick to come from are there any other mods needed to the Shell install this later A plus set-up? (Someone in my local car club told me I'd have to cut the tunnel from a later car?)

Can I use the existing dry sub frame or will I need a new one?

Are there any other parts I need to swap to make it all fit? (the same chap I spoke to told me I'd have to change the driveshaft's and steering arms?)

I am planning to use Cooper 'S' spec discs with a servo will this cause a problem?

Thanks in advance for your help.
OBL233F
OBL233F

Posts : 8
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Join date : 2009-04-22
Age : 32
Location : Kent

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Post  cheleker Mon Jan 02, 2017 8:53 pm

Consider keeping the car original with the magic wand; however, if you want to convert...

The round floor in the Mk I does not have to be replaced with the later square one, but you will need to install a "cross over" method to mount the shift lever end of the rod change. You can make one or buy one. Here is an example: http://www.minimania.com/part/22G2026MM/Austin-Mini-Rod-Change-Adapter-To-Floor-Mounting-Kit-For-The-Non-Rod-Change

The dry subframe if fine.

Drive shafts will need to be matched to the inboard CV joints ("pot joints").

If you retain the Mk I steering rack, the steering arms do not need to be changed. You might consider going to a Mk II+ rack and then you should change the arms.

The brake conversion will not cause "problems" but there is a lot involved.

cheleker

Posts : 185
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Location : Seattle, Washington, USA

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Post  OBL233F Tue Jan 03, 2017 12:21 am

Thanks for your kind advice. I will bear everything in mind. I was hoping to build a Cooper lookalike as we had one a few years ago which was my reasoning for not wanting the magic wand.
OBL233F
OBL233F

Posts : 8
Points : 5494
Join date : 2009-04-22
Age : 32
Location : Kent

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