Clutch pedal travel

Hi

As part of my restoration project I am working on the interior and I cannot decide if the clutch pedal is slightly bent to the left. If you fully depress it it eventually stops when hit touches the bolt holding the steering rack in place. If it was slightly to the right then it would have slightly more travel and touch the floor. Prior to the car coming off the road I had continuing clutch problems and I am wondering whether this is part of the problem. In an effort to solve the problem every part of the clutch / linkage / hydraulics etc is being replaced.

Any suggestions would be gratefully received.


Thanks



Stuart

Hi Stuart



This is Humphrey's pedal flat to the floor - it does hit the bolt. If you are replacing the lot then any wear is eradicated so should be OK. The only other thing I would suggest is to use a short split pin in the shaft pin and to make sure the ends are bent well up so they do not foul on the bulkhead when the pedal is at rest. I had the bright idea once to use a R clip - brilliant for removing the master cylinder, no hanging upside down with a pair of pincers trying to straighten a split pin. Only thing was as the shaft pin rotated in use the R clip would catch the bulkhead and stop the master cylinder returning fully, giving the effect of an intermittent slipping clutch - drove me nuts trying to find the problem. I have also noticed this effect with a split pin that was too long and not bent out of the way.

You must be nearly there now ? Are you out for the Saltire? we have put an entry in for the first time and looking forward to it

Gordon

Thanks for the photo Cat Mint that looks just like mine. I have actually got most of the car back together - front end complete with suspension, brakes etc all in place. Rear end just needs one brake pipe connected and the handbrakes cable connected. Fuel tank treated with Slosh and pipework, fuel pump and fuel regulator all lying in the boot ready for fitting. Engine / gearbox stripped down and needed new big end shells and piston rings, water pump, clutch, centre oil pick up pump - should get then engine back this weekend - all ancilliaries painted and ready to fit, exhaust manifold - cleaned, painted, wrapped, exhaust painted, steering column bushes replaced, carpets and seat belts trial fitted, gear lever, extension etc all cleaned and ready to go.

Nearly finished - perhaps not quite !

Stuart

I would modify Gordon's good advice regarding use of an R-pin (or hitch pin) to say they work very well. Just make sure you get one of the proper size. Too long can cause problems.

I think I will stick with the correct sized R pin. When I came to remove the master cylinder some time ago it had a split pin which had rusted in situ and was impossible to remove. To get access I had to release the master cylinder as far as it would go and then cut it in two with an angle grinder to get the split pin out - a full day's work with lots of cursing !

The actual pin through the rod into the master cylinder was also too small and moved around which meant that I wasn't getting the full pedal travel. I have fitted a new pin with the correct sized R pin

Thanks for the advice


Stuart